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Impatto_sociale - Rifò Lab Moda circolare made in Italy

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Can a fleece jacket be made from wool?

When you think of the word fleece, the first image that probably comes to mind is a warm, soft garment, perfect for winter... but traditionally made from 100% petroleum-based synthetic polyester.

At Rifò, we asked ourselves a simple but ambitious question: is it possible to create a soft, high-performance fleece without using synthetic fibers or virgin fibers? Our answer is the 100% recycled wool fleece jacket.

What does fleece mean?

First, a note on the meaning of the word fleece. Fleece traditionally refers to a polyester textile fabric that is knitted and then brushed to make it soft, warm and pleasant to the touch.

The history of the fleece jacket

The success of this material, which originated in 1979 through a collaboration between the US company Malden Mills (now Polartec) and outdoor clothing brand Patagonia, became so closely associated with a specific category of products—typically sweatshirts and fleece jackets—that over time the material itself came to refer to the garment.

The fleece jacket has traditionally been made from polyester. Recreating this type of fabric and garment in 100% wool—and, even more unusually, in recycled wool—is a distinctive choice on our part, and one whose benefits we'll explain below.

Recycled wool fleece jacket: benefits of recycled wool vs polyester - Rifò Lab circular fashion made in Italy

Why wasn't wool fleece available on the market?

As we've seen, traditional fleece emerged in the late 1970s as an affordable, lightweight alternative to wool. To achieve the classic fleece fabric, a specific finishing process is applied: a knitted garment is brushed and then sheared to create the characteristic fluffy surface that traps heat.

Traditional wool has long been difficult to adapt to this process for three main reasons:

  • The industrial practicality of polyester: Brushing and shearing a valuable material such as wool to create a fleece effect requires complex processing, which would make the garment too expensive for mass-market production.
  • Production costs: Polyester is an ultra-durable synthetic fiber that is inexpensive and easy to process.
  • Ease of washing: For the end consumer, washing a polyester fleece jacket is much more convenient: it can be machine washed at different temperatures without shrinking or felting. However, repeated washing can quickly age the fabric and release microplastics.

Polyester: what it is, why it can be harmful to health and the planet

The benefits of creating a natural fleece made from recycled wool

Combining the classic fleece structure with the natural properties of recycled wool brings concrete technical, environmental and aesthetic benefits.

Feature Rifò recycled wool fleece Traditional polyester fleece
🌱 Environmental impact Biodegradable and free from virgin synthetic fibers Releases microplastics with every wash
💨 Breathability Naturally breathable and temperature-regulating Traps moisture and can contribute to unpleasant odors
🧵 Main material Recycled old wool garments Petroleum-derived materials
🫲🏻 Feel Natural warmth and softness without static buildup Synthetic / static electricity
🧼 Washing and care Dry cleaning required, while maintaining its original appearance over time Easy to wash but fibers can age prematurely

1. Say goodbye to microplastics

Every time you wash a polyester fleece vest or jacket, thousands of tiny plastic fibers can detach, entering wastewater and eventually waterways and oceans. Our fleece, made from 100% recycled wool, eliminates this issue at the source.

2. Fiber longevity

When it comes to long-term appearance, the difference between the two fibers becomes apparent after just a few wash cycles. Synthetic polyester fleece tends to deteriorate quickly: the mechanical action of washing can cause pilling and flatten the fleece pile, permanently reducing its original softness and giving the garment a worn, creased appearance. By contrast, wool fleece maintains its natural structure over time. As a natural fiber with inherent elasticity, wool withstands wear while keeping the garment full, even and pleasant to look at, without the surface degradation typical of plastic-based materials.

3. Thermoregulation and natural comfort

Wool has a unique property that plastic cannot replicate: it breathes. It retains body heat when it's cold while allowing excess moisture to escape, avoiding the greenhouse effect often associated with synthetic garments.

4. Circularity that reduces impact

To produce our 100% recycled wool fleece, no new sheep were sheared and no new petroleum was extracted. The fabric comes from old wool sweaters, sorted by color, shredded back into fiber and spun again in Prato, Italy. This low-water, low-energy process requires no new dyeing, helping save water and CO2 (respectively -81% and -82% compared with the same garment made from virgin wool for a Margaret wool fleece jacket).

Which is warmer: fleece or wool?

At the same thickness, synthetic fleece provides excellent immediate thermal performance while remaining very lightweight. However, wool can provide superior warmth in real-life conditions: its natural fiber structure has strong insulating potential and can retain heat even when damp. Unlike traditional fleece, which can cause sweat to build up due to limited breathability, wool helps regulate body temperature, providing more consistent thermal comfort without the greenhouse effect.

Recycled wool fleece jacket: benefits of recycled wool vs polyester - Rifò Lab circular fashion made in Italy

Is polyester fleece harmful to your health?

Wearing polyester fleece garments does not cause direct or immediate health damage, but it does present several indirect concerns that should not be overlooked. Because polyester is a petroleum-derived plastic fiber that does not breathe, fleece can encourage the proliferation of odor-causing bacteria and may trigger irritation or dermatitis in more sensitive skin.

Choosing recycled wool fleece—such as the Women's Fleece Jacket Margaret, the Men's Fleece Jacket Richard or the Unisex Fleece Vest Andrew—means redefining the concept of winter comfort. It's proof that we don't have to choose between a warm garment designed to last and a lower-impact approach to clothing: by rediscovering recycled natural fibers, we can enjoy warmth without plastic, just as people once did.

Recycled wool fleece jacket: benefits of recycled wool vs polyester - Rifò Lab circular fashion made in Italy

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about recycled wool fleece and polyester fleece

When was fleece fabric invented?

In 1979, through a collaboration between US company Malden Mills (now Polartec) and outdoor clothing brand Patagonia.

How do you wash polyester fleece?

Polyester fleece can be machine washed without major issues, but the fabric can begin to show signs of wear after just a few washes.

How do you wash wool fleece?

A wool fleece jacket should be dry cleaned to avoid felting, while preserving its original appearance. Because wool is breathable, if the garment isn't too dirty and only needs to be freshened up, simply airing it out can be enough to remove unpleasant odors.

What is the biggest advantage of wool fleece?

Wool fleece is naturally temperature-regulating and breathable, providing comfort without trapping sweat against the body.

Can I wear Rifò's 100% wool fleece jacket in the mountains?

Absolutely! Wool was traditionally used for outdoor activities and mountain clothing. We particularly recommend this jacket for leisure and everyday outdoor use. If you use it for intense physical activity, however, you will need to clean it more frequently.

Which is warmer, fleece or wool?

Fleece is lighter and provides a more immediate feeling of warmth. Wool is heavier, but its natural properties make it highly insulating and capable of providing lasting warmth.

Is polyester harmful to your health?

No, polyester does not cause direct health damage. However, its limited breathability can contribute to sweat and the proliferation of odor-causing bacteria.

Does wool fleece last longer than polyester fleece?

Recycled wool fleece is more likely to maintain a pleasant appearance over time, as it can retain its feel and visual quality even after repeated use and proper care.